The front steps leading to the home is used many time dring the day and is considered a mainstay of the home both asthetically and structuraly. When friends come to visit they rely on the integrity of this throughfare.
When in the market for a new home consideration must be given to the cost of either repairing or replacing masonry steps that lack maintenance. Steps that do not look good to even the inexperienced eye are probably loaded with hidden problems. Over the years during the winter seasons homeowners use salt or other products to melt the ice from the steps. This has a tendency to go beneath the surface and deteriorate the structure of the steps.
Normally steps built in the fifties consisted of either concrete block but probably mostly cinder blocks. Salt can effect the structure of the steps adversely. Of course masonry component smay loosen from time to time and can be repaired easily. But after years of use the underlying structual cinder blocks may have seen their day. Often times, once remedial work has first been started, more and more damage is found. There’s no sense in building or repairing on top of someting that has crumbled and is no longer structurall efficient. The whole steps may have to be rebuilt.
Another consideration are the iron railings that are mounted into the concrete blocks or bricks. If their in good condition they can be used again. But if not, than the wrought iron railings will need to be replaced. And that is an expensive consideration. Often times if one has to rebuild the steps it may be a good idea to install aluminum railings- that do not rust. Thereby saving you the anxiety of replacing the old iron railing in the near future.
Often time when doing my New Jersey home inspections, I come across work that has been inadequately repaired, due to termite activity, and not up to the proper building code standards. In the photo that I took here, there has once been extensive termite damage to the floor joist system. The horizontal sillplate was repaired properly using wolmanized lumber and appears to be quite adequate, but the new floor joists have not yet been properly sistered/joined or supported to hold up the living space.
Merely nailing a short length of the new joist to an original joist does not constitute an adequate repair. These joist will separate in due time, leaving the new joist doing absolutely nothing nad hanging in mid- air. What should be done is to extend the new floor joist(s) end to end so that both ends rest on two proper bearing points or plates (as they are called in the trade). In doing so the new joist(s) will than be properly installed and ready to except the weight of the floor system and any live loads that will prevail during normal everyday use.
When it is not possible to extend the new joists from plate to plate, I always recommend installing the longest length of joist possible and than sistering (joining together side by side) the new floor joist to the original joist as securely as possible. During any floor joist repair, I would definitely recommend the use of carriage bolts through both floor joists to ensure adequate repair.
Stephen, who has been inspecting homes in Central New Jersey since 1998, says he often goes the extra mile when inspecting attics. When necessary, I have taken clothes out of the closet myself or with the help of the home owner or real estate agent. I usually put an old sheet or towel over the clothes and try to position my step ladder as best as possible so as to gain access thru the scuttle hole. If there are two access points, I can climb over to the other side and get in that part of the attic anyway.
Gaining access into the attic is always an important part of the home inspection process. There are many areas of concern, such as, plumbing venting pipes used in conjunction with bathroom exhaust and clothes dryer ducting, flue pipes that are connected to the homes heating system, fire separation walls, type and condition of installed insulation, possible animal infestation, possible mold and mildew, deficient structural conditions, attic ventilation and the possiblity roof leaks.
The most difficult problem I sometimes face is actually squeezing through the scuttle access hole itself, that can be severely undersized especially in older homes. If I didn’t go in the attic or any other space for that matter, the lack of access is documented in the report . “Photos are always a plus.”
During a recent home inspection in Somerset, New Jersey, I noticed that a temporary hollow post was installed beneath and supporting a Steel I-beam located in the basement. As standard procedure, whenever a large beam is installed whether it be a built up wooden beam or steel I-beam, a solid steel concrete filled post is placed as support for the structural beam.
If you ask me, I think the hollow steel post had been put in temporarily and forgotten about; the hollow post is not rated to for such a heavy load as a house structure. These steel I-beams were not connected together in anyway. Luckily it appears that the existing concrete posts were installed over solid concrete footings. Since the only thing that is needed is an additional post, the existing footing will be sufficient. I always advise to install (4) four inch solid steel concrete posts under all types of beams.
I’m wondering how the Somerset County, NJ municipal code official missed this? Quite obvious during the rough framing inspection I would imagine. The house has been like this for quite some time. Luckily there was no structural damage, only the lack of a proper structure support.
Engineered wood I-beam joists were first introduced in the late 1960s and were used mainly in high-end home building. However, today up to half the homes built in the United States now use engineered wooden I-beams. They are considered an excellent alternative to sawn lumber for floor joists due to their strength and overall stability.
Wood I-beams consist of a center section constructed out of a layer of Oriented Strand Board (OSB) material that is sandwiched on top and bottom by two wide flange sections made out of finger jointed sawn lumber.
There are cut-out or knock-out holes in the OSB material that can be easily removed for running electrical wires and/or heating ducts. These knock-outs make it convienent for contractors to work with, eliminating excessive drilling/or cutting of holes.
Engineered Wood I-beams have several major advantages. First of all, they usually are much stronger, straighter and stiffer than conventional sawn lumber. Data indicates that they are 50% stiffer than sawn lumber. And what I like is that they shrink less. Consequently with less deflection and less shrinkage, this translates into better floor construction.
Of particular importance, while the house is under construction, is to Not cut or notch the top and bottom flanges. These flanges are what gives these joists their strength. When a contractor cuts or damages this component part of the I-beam, they may have critically damaged this structural component. To instigate a proper repair procedure, the manufacturer needs to be contacted. Since these are engineered wood components, only the manufacturer can tell you how to correct a defect.
As you see when you enlarge the photo, the plumbing contractor has notched below the bath tub drain which weaken the joist dramatically. Large holes can be made in the plywood web to a certain extent and the I-beam is not affected. But stay away from the flanges, as it is taboo to cut or alter them in any way.
The common situation that sometimes abruptly surfaces: after doing a Central New Jersey home inspection and returning to the house to pick up a radon canister only to be confronted by a disgruntled homeowner telling you that you had made life very difficult for them. All too often I hear, ”that it wasn’t required when the house was first built so why even mention it during the home inspection.” Or the realtor may say that there is no need to recommend future changes, that no more is needed.
When I go out to do a home inspection I need to do the job as I see fit. I will report things as I see them but will also mention and include in the report findings “safety upgrades” as they come up, especially in older homes. When talking with other home inspectors I find they are faced with the same sense of ingratitude coming from the selling realtor and/or the homeowner. Even though something wasn’t required when the older home was first built, I feel the home inspection “ is the perfect time to educate people” in regard to how to improve the condition of their Central New Jersey home.
My area of expertise is home construction and design in New Jersey. I have spent many years educating myself in this field of endeavor. I consider myself a generalist. but also a house expert who understands how the structural, mechanical and electrical systems should work together in a house. Many homes, old and new, were built with minimum standards. The average person may not understand how& when a house is supposed to be maintained. They are not house experts. That’s where I come in.
I don’t see why anyone would have a problem with a home inspector “recommending” safety upgrades? If an older home doesn’t have GFCI protection, I always recommend them. I also ask my clients if they actually know what GFCI’s are used for. If they don’t, it’s “time for me to educate” them about the importance of these modern safety devices.
I always check to see if handrails are up to today’s current safety standards here in New Jersey because- this is always a big safety issue. Or egress windows that meet minimum requirements- providing an escape-way in case of a fire. Of course garage doors need to be installed correctly and openers need to have proper auto-reversing function fully operational. And the garage floor and living space floor should not be at the same height- that could allow gasoline fumes to enter into the house during an accidental spill and cause a fire or explosion. And any access hatches into the attic that would affect the integrity of the firewall.
Many times I see that in older homes that there is no division/or fire safety wall that separates the attic area between the living space of the house and the garage. The installation of an attic fire wall between the garage and the home’s living space is an important concern. I know of a whole block of older townhouses that recently burned down in New Brunswick, NJ because there were no fire walls. Installing a firewall could save the rest of the house or buildings from going up in flames. It could help provide needed time for the fire department to respond to the emergency and save the home or buildings and it’s inhabitants from disaster.
beam that was damaged
Why not just change your mind set about cutting the beam. Cutting any beam is a Bad idea. What about just trimming the hollow core folding doors to fit into the opening. Obviously a very bad choice had been made here by an inexperienced handyman. This photo was taken by me during one of my home inspections this past week.
When adding enhancements to a basement, such as door to close off storage, the installer should never, ever cut the supportive, structural beam. Sometimes just drilling into the beam may be frowned upon by the manufacturer. The system installed in this house consisted of I-Beam joist with parallel strand lumber used for the beams. In this case a repair had been prescribed by the manufacturer for the damaged component that had been sistered over the beam. The wolmanized verticle 2x8s are not structural but were merely placed there to fill the gaps on the either side of the doors.
What should I know about the condition of a masonry chimney? What is a mortar wash? What are chimney caps used for? These are all good questions that deserve a valid answer.
- Chimney Components
The proper functioning of the masonry chimney that is usually located at the top of the house roof is crucial to the operation of the combustion appliances connected to it. Normally connected to the home’s heating unit and domestic water heater. Sometimes, if there are two separate chimney flues, one can be used with a fireplace and the other with a furnace or boiler.
- Masonry Chimney
Most masonry chimneys are made with concrete or cinder block and than covered with brick. At the top of the chimney, a concrete flashing is used to cap the masonry unit’s structure and keep rain water out and penetrating inside the chimney. These cement washes, however should not be considered by themselves a long term solution to guard against moisture penetration. All cement washes should be covered with a metal chimney cap to keep the rain water out.
Cement Wash
Over time the chimney can develop severe damage and deterioration due to water seepage inside the masonry structure. A white powdery substance can develop on the outside surface of the chimney indicating that moisture has penetrated the chimney and is evaporating from inside the brick, hence the term given is efflorescence.
- Chimney Deterioration
However there may be other internal forces at hand that can lead to additional deterioration of the masonry chimney’s internal components. Most modern home heating appliances use either gas or oil. During normal operation of the house’s heating appliance, a natural by product of combustion is the creation of water vapor. If the chimney is not properly sized or lined for the combustion to properly take place while discharging the water vapor out of the chimney, a lot of deterioration will develop over time due to excessive condensation water left inside the chimney. The result will be damage to the inside of the masonry chimney.
- Chimney Rebuild
So in conclusion, to adequately check a masonry chimney first look on the exterior for any obvious damage. Than if possible go on the roof and check the chimney top. It is highly recommended to hire a chimney sweep to clean and than inspect the interior of the chimney for loose or broken components.
Decks are a framed structure that a lot of homeowners in New Jersey like to attempt themselves but somtimes there is a lack of good workmanship. This is especially critical when the deck is elevated. There are approximately 40 million decks throughout the United States and it has been estimated that about half of these decks are flawed either through inadequate workmanship or age.
Typical elevated attached deck
As a carpenter by trade, I am very familiar with deck building and house framing in general. Usually when I go out for a home inspection that has a deck, I will find problems. These common defects consist of largely of loose railings, wood deterioration, improperly fastened ledger boards, poor stair carriage installation and support, poor joist clip installation (brackets that support the floor joist structure) and excessive lateral deck movement, meaning side to side sway. Decks are a part of the house that homeowners want to do themselves, yet permits are not taken out and the work is not inspected. And a large number of improperly constructed decks are by mis-informed sub-contractors.
Many decks that are improperly built may remain intact for a while but what finally can happen is failure or collapase because of the tremendous weight load. This is especially more frequent when there is a change of ownership to a larger family with friends. Perhaps during the first house warming party, the deck’s structure really gets tested. This could lead to a deck shift possibly due to broken or rusted joist clips or just rusted nails or poor post supports. Nails can only fasten components together, but structural integrity and load bearing often relies on the way the framing lumber is supported together and the use of bolts in critical support areas.
