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Thanks to the improvements in technology residential water heaters are now the FVIR or (Flammable Vapor Ignition-Resistant) type. What the manufacturer has done is to enclose around the burn chamber, essentially sealing the burner access point where flammables may enter. A good indicator that you have a FVIR water heater would be a sealed burner access and a piezo-starter or igniter.
The principle is that water heaters are now designed to prevent the lower burner from igniting flammable liquids near the water heater. An example of use would be in a garage where gasoline might be stored and spilled.
There are two key elements of these water heaters. A thermal sensor, or cutoff switch (TCO) or a thermal release device (TRD). And a flame arrestor screen located at the bottom of the unit that allows combustion air to enter but does not allow flame out i case of ignition.
If and when a problem happens the water heat shuts down:
For example if the flam arrestor screen becomes clogged by lint or debris the water heater will shut down due to “”inadequate combustion” and there will be no hot water for the home. Also if the water heater is under negative pressure caused by flue venting problems or obstructions, the unit wil shut down due to “inadequate combustion”. And again there will be no hot water.
Lint from clothes dryers must be closely watched to make sure the dryer duct does not become disconnected. This area needs to be kept free of lint debris and appears to be one of the biggest issues. If you canot see the flame through the glass inspection port this is a problem and should be corrected.
While inspecting a commercial building earlier in the week, here in central New Jersey, I came across many defects but there was one that stuck out in my mind that I wanted to share. It’s the flue vent connected to multiple hot water heaters that had a huge hole or gap in it. It’s too bad that the maintenance mechanic, if there was one, didn’t notice this defect sooner. The effects of not noticing this defect is a definite ongoing health hazard to everyine in the building. That’s why it’s so important to have annual inspections in public buildings.
What is happening is that a huge amount of poisoness gas is being dumped into the basement of this building every day. Carbon monoxide causes drouzyness and headaches and can lead to a person dying from overexposure.
Additional, I didn’t have to go too much farther until I noticed the bottom of the hot water heater was leaking. Since this was in the unfinished area of basement if the tank did burst, it would probable cause a minimum of damage. That’s why when visiting a home I alway recommend an emergency drain pan to be installed under the hot water heat appliance, especially if it’s located on the 2nd floor. Additional damage was noted on the bottom of the tank due to rusting that was coming from the inside. The water heater will have to be replaced.
During my home inspections I sometimes find indications of a past used oil tank. Old oil tank fuel lines in the basement are a tell tale sign that an oil tank has been on the property at one time. The questions that remain to be answered are if the tank is still there, if the tank has been removed and is no longer there; and if and when the oil tank was removed or is still in place, was it properly decommissioned?
If there are questions that remain as to if and when there were or still is an oil tank on the property that you would like to buy, the best thing you can do for yourself is to have the property scanned for underground metal tanks. The are speciality companies that will come out and do this for a modest service charge. The service person walks the grounds near the house and looks for any indications of a large metal mass. If found, the next step is to probe and actually find the tank using a large metal probing bar. Then finally to outline the perimeter of the hidden tank.
Stephen, who has been inspecting homes in Central New Jersey since 1998, says he often goes the extra mile when inspecting attics. When necessary, I have taken clothes out of the closet myself or with the help of the home owner or real estate agent. I usually put an old sheet or towel over the clothes and try to position my step ladder as best as possible so as to gain access thru the scuttle hole. If there are two access points, I can climb over to the other side and get in that part of the attic anyway.
Gaining access into the attic is always an important part of the home inspection process. There are many areas of concern, such as, plumbing venting pipes used in conjunction with bathroom exhaust and clothes dryer ducting, flue pipes that are connected to the homes heating system, fire separation walls, type and condition of installed insulation, possible animal infestation, possible mold and mildew, deficient structural conditions, attic ventilation and the possiblity roof leaks.
The most difficult problem I sometimes face is actually squeezing through the scuttle access hole itself, that can be severely undersized especially in older homes. If I didn’t go in the attic or any other space for that matter, the lack of access is documented in the report . “Photos are always a plus.”
A disconnected/and damaged gas dryer duct was found while inspecting a house the other day. The clothes washing appliances were located in utilty room connected to the main house. At first, it was a little difficult to see the damage because the duct was pushed behind the dryer appliance. As soon as I started the gas dryer appliance did the extent of the defect become noticeable. Lint debris was blowing into the air. 
Since this was a gas dryer, fossil fuel must be combusted along with deadly oderless carbon monoxide gas. And expelled, in this case, into the living space of the home causing a very hazardous condition. The house had only been vacant for a month. The service person that did the installation just didn’t do a good job. Luckily the duct ruptured when I started the appliance. Even a small hole in the duct would be very dangerous to anyone living in the house that could cause headaches and also be life threatening. Carbon monoxide is colorless and oderless and it doesn’t take very much to harm an individual. The hole is located where the gas pipe and shut-off valve are situated.
For several years plastic dryer venting has been banned from use with clothes dryer appliances. However I still see this material being used in some newer but in mostly older homes. This product is considered a fire safety hazard and should be replaced if you have this material installed in your home.
Today, most households use flexible metal foil ducting as the connector between the dryer and the exterior discharge. Much better than it’s plastic counterpart, it has been approved for residential use by fire code officials in most municipalities.
Optimally, the best product is smooth wall aluminum ducting using rigid metal adapters connected to the dryer discharge and the vent. The cost and effort installing is well worth it in the long run.
If it has been more than 3 years since you cleaned your vents, we recommend doing so. Dryer lint can build up on the sides of the duct, and will greatly reduce the efficiency of your appliance. If the build-up is extreme, your dryer appliance could burn out, or perhaps, even start a fire.
While conducting my normal home inspection of the kitchen, the sink and faucet area is always of outmost importance. I routinely check all kitchen appliances for water leaks, proper water pressure, adequate drainage and any loose or improperly installed electrical wires. The garbage disposal is operated and I peek below the sink to see that it is firmly mounted in place, as there is a possibility for these disposers to loosen over time. While operating the garbage disposal I will check the hot and cold water controls at the same time.
A question sometimes arises, while doing my home inspection, as to if there are any benefits to running either hot or cold water into the operated garbage disposal; and what the proper procedures are for proper maintenance.
Here’s my ”to do and what not to do list”:
- During the operation of disposing most food waste always use a strong flow of cold water to flush all food debris down the drain. This helps any grease or oils to solidify, making them more easily chopped up/and cut up before reaching the P-trap located within the drain line under the sink. Putting chicken bones down the drain is acceptable
- NEVER use hot water when disposing normal food waste. Hot water can cause grease or oils to build up excessively on the blades, and may eventually cause your drain to clog.
- However, when cleaning time arrives for the disposer, now it’s ok to use the hot water. Using equal parts of white vinegar and baking soda, then flushing with very hot or boiling water usually does the trick. Afterwards put ice cubes in to help clean the blades.
- Don’t forget to scrub under the rubber flapper, something that many people have no idea about. This is an area that may not be affected by the liquid cleaners because the under part of the rubber flappers remains hidden. Use a glove and a sponge soaked with a strong liquid cleaner that contains bleach. This will stop the bacteria in it’s tracks and odors coming up from the drain.
- I also like to fill the sink part way up with some hot soapy water and drain the sink while operating the disposer. You can see that this does a really good job of getting rid of the debris that may still be left inside the disposal unit.
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